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Nara is one of the most amazing places in Japan. Its gigantic Buddhas and impressive wooden temples create a wonderful feeling of zen and tranquility.

In this peaceful park, antiquity meets fauna as young deer prance about the UNESCO listed site.

But not all is perfect in paradise. Every day in Nara – old ladies and young girls are suffering cruel and horrible fates.


On the day I visited, I witnessed and captured one of these horrific attacks. Please use your own discretion, the image below is unsettling.

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DeerMunch

“Thank you.” said the polite Japanese lady.

Cup cakes

Japanese ‘cup’ cakes

Had a hair in my dinner last night.

This is taking the old butcher’s saying “use every part of the beast” a bit far I’d say.

At last, a sushi chef who takes the saying “use every part of the animal” seriously.

Horse and Mane 1

“Ah, waiter there’s a hair in my sushi. It is long, coarse and stinks of saddles.”

In the race for most popular sushi, this horse finished last.
I don’t know if it was the promise of animal hair, or the unappetising lack of spacing in ‘rawhorsemeat,’ but the Japanese locals were definitely not backing this horse.
Soon after this photo was taken, the old horse made one final lap then was taken off the track and put down. (Literally.)

Eating whilst walking is one of my greatest skills. I can eat almost anything on the move. Sandwiches, chicken nuggests, bisque, unshucked oysters – whatever.

But in Japan, my skills are useless. It is considered rude to eat in public and just down right weird to be walking whilst doing it. Talking loudly on public transport, public hugging and using mismatched chopsticks are also big faux pas at which I excel.

I was prepared and aware. Ready to unleash the polite and socially appropriate Japanese man from deep within myself, undetected into Japanese life.

However, one afternoon something happened that I could not have prepared for. An extremely unusual and rarely occurring phenomenon of etiquette.

Here’s how it went down.
I was hungry and far from the hotel in Fukuoka (a great little city in the west of Japan – visit it for Japan’s best Ramen noodles if nothing else). I needed an afternoon snack and the 7/11’s in Japan are legendary, filled with a magnificent array of food stuffs unimaginable to the westerner’s mind.
I picked myself up a classic tuna sushi roll. Knowing the golden rule “it is rude to eat on the street” I walked out of the shop roll in hand, but wanting it to be in roll in mouth. I crouched with an uncertain awkwardness behind the potted bushes as seen to the back of this google street view:

Nibbling away, protected from judgmental eyes by Japanese shrubbery I watched the business men, school girls and well presented ladies in kimonos. A short man trundled past pushing some kind of cart, perhaps aged in his late 50s. I’m fairly sure he was a worker, but I didn’t get a good look. Then, I noticed… Something had silently and accidentally fallen off his cart landing on the wet road. It looked like…

…a small towel! My instincts were to leap forward. “Excuse me! You’ve dropped your small towel!” It was probably his favourite towel! He probably used it to dab his face, or knee backs in the sweltering Japanese heat.

I had to reassess my urges. I had to hold back. I was still mid snack! I couldn’t be seen like this, not here. But I had to act. I stuck the roll in the pocket of my skinny jeans and frantically wiped my mouth and face, hoping to dislodge any remaining pieces of rice or tuna. Stepping out onto the street merging with the pedestrians I was agitated with indecision the towel was now trodden on and squelchy.

What of my fellow pedestrians? There must have been at least 31 other witnesses. Why didn’t they respond? Is there any etiquette for this situation? (I have since googled “how to act if a japanese man drops his towel” and it seems there is not.*) I made eye contact with strangers, looking for help. They dropped their gaze and scurried onwards.

The man whom had dropped his towel was now out of sight. Returning his towel would involve me running through the streets holding a sodden towel, flicking dirty street water onto business men, school girls and well presented ladies in kimonos.

I had missed my chance to do a good deed… I picked a bit of rice from my beard and chewed things over in my mind and mouth.

Later that day, I returned to see if perhaps the man had retraced his steps and been reunited with his beloved towel. But alas:

Now, weeks after the event I’ve come to a forgive myself. The whole matter was the complicated result of over analysis, mixed with cultural confusion. Far too complex for my little Australian mind. I come from a place where we have no etiquette, where you wouldn’t be out of place walking down the streets of Sydney in lycra underpants.**

For all I know, towel accidents might cause awkwardness all over the world and it might not be just a Japanese no no, but a global no no, in any city, in any country of the world. I would urge you to think about this as a global issue, and prepare yourself.
If a man drops his towel, or his anything for that matter… what would you do? What ever it is, don’t eat whilst crouched in the shrubs to avoid weirdness. It’s weird.

*In a delightful turn of events, if you now google “how to act if a japanese man drops his towel” this article comes up.
**some call them, speedos.

In my recent Japanese travels I came across 3 memorable characters, all of whom live vividly in my memories.

Japan is sitting on a personality goldmine and should make use of one of these figures as their ambassador to the world, like Paul Hogan to Australia, or Kylie Minogue to Britain. I will propose this to the Japanese government shortly,* but in the meantime I’d appreciate your opinion. Who should become the face of Japan?

Entry 1: Captain Ashtray Dancer

Baring his chest to the world, he proudly dances with his ashtray castanets on the helm of the Japanese mothership.

His boat is crewed by men in pink spandex gimp outfits with religious overtones, all of whom would be ready to welcome any lucky visitor into the country.

He is also an exquisite role model to the youth. As I’ve always said, “you can’t smoke if your hands are full of ashtrays.”

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Entry 2: Mr. Moustache

From gimps to pimps**, Mr. Moustache specialises in poodles and doodles. This mascot was discovered in the backstreets of Shinjuku in the famed “Golden Gai” area, surrounded by Love Hotels. ***

Like Entry 1, he comes with the support of his 9 sons, all available for rent.

**To be fair, this might actually be a hair salon.

***I was just looking for a hairdresser.

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Entry 3: Sento-Kun, the Boy Buddah

Already a powerful mascot in Japan, Sento-Kun represents Nara – Japan’s first capital, which rivals Kyoto for its spectacular temples and depiction of old school Japan.

This great shot from the Julie In Japan blog. http://tiny.cc/nlcoo

Sento-Kun is a fairly controversial figure already in Japan (you can read about that issue here), however he does clearly convert well to human form as you can see below.

Come to think of it, he does look like a young version of Captain Ashtray Dancer, with antlers.

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So choose wisely!

Captain Ashtray Dancer

Mr Moustache

or

The Boy Buddah

I shall take the results to the Japanese Minister for Tourism.*

*I won’t.

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